Commentary by Malana — photos by google

Roland and I are currently residing in a gite in the Aveyron.  A gite is a rural rental cottage or apartment and they were established in France with the goal of providing farmers extra income in underutilized buildings.  In the past several months, we have stayed at gites but this is the first, true rural gite.  We are on the outskirts of Rodez (the largest city for miles) at the Moulin Cantaranne.  The Moulin­­ or flour mill has been in the same family for 700 years and they are still grinding flour using the energy from the river.  Our apartment is in an older Hospitalier’s* lodging that dates back to the 13^th century. Even though we can see the Rodez Cathedral in the distance, we also enjoy visits from curious Aubrec cows but unfortunately when the wind blows in the wrong direction – we can also smell them.

So why are we lost in the middle of nowhere. Well several months ago Roland and I were helped by a young man at the gas station (our debit card didn’t work so we gave him cash and he used his card).  He was curious about where we were staying in Southwest France and when we replied “the Gers” – he said “oh, that’s in the middle of nowhere.” Then we said “well, we also like Aveyron” to which he replied “If you are in Aveyron – you’re lost in the middle of nowhere!”

Aveyron has its critics – too rural, long winter etc. but on the other hand – it never gets crowded even in the height of summer, the food is unique and the locals still live simply like they have for generations.  (But you don’t have to take my word for it — check out this blog I just read. )Of course things have changed and they have and use the latest technology but they have a keen appreciation for their land and history.  Because of this there are dozens of villages in Aveyron with the designation of “Les Plus Beaux Village’.  There are also many opportunities to visit small, local producers of goods (cheese, wine, leather goods).  But given that this is France – there is also a number of Michelin Star restaurants including Bras Restaurant which has three Michelin stars and some claim that it is the top restaurant in the world.  For €220 a meal, it better be good.

Unfortunately, Roland and I have spent much of the past several weeks in meetings with the Aveyron Tourism office, the chamber of commerce, village mayors, real estate agents, notaires,** lawyers, currency exchange brokers and architects – so we haven’t explored Aveyron as much as we’d like.  We were able to visit Conques last Sunday on an absolutely perfect afternoon – soaking up the beautiful medieval streets and the sounds of the church choir.

So thankfully we’re not truly lost (since my mom sent her GPS over) but we are enjoying being lost in time and in the countryside.

*Hospitaliers were a religious and military order during the time of the crusades that created the first Hospitals.

** Notaires handle the real estate transaction – they are somewhere between a lawyer and an escrow officer.