This month the Chateau de Balsac, friends and family were honored to attend a Cupbearers Guild event in Valady, a nearby village that is famous for its Marcillac Appellation wine vineyards.
The cupbearers, known in France since the Middle Ages as the échansons, were the persons responsible for the lord’s wine and cellar. Since the Middle Ages, the Echansonneries were an important part of a noble’s household. The local Echansonnerie of St-Bourrou brotherhood of winegrowers was founded in 1990 when Marcillac wine received its AOC designation.
A fascinating aspect of this history is that a cupbearer was not a lowly waiter; rather, an officer of high rank in royal courts whose duty was to pour and serve the drinks at the royal table. On account of the constant fear of plots and intrigues such as poisoning, a person had to be regarded as thoroughly trustworthy to hold the position. As a member of a king’s inner circle, he would guard against poison in the king’s cup (and was sometimes advised to publicly swallow some of the drink before serving it). His confidential relations with a king or lord often gave him a position of great influence.1
To honor the vineyard’s origins, guild members wear a red robe to invoke the old days. The robe’s style is intentionally reminiscent of the monks of Conques (another nearby village), who influenced local viticulture. The outfit also includes a black hat and a tasting cup (tassou) held by a neck chain.
The brotherhood’s mission is to promote and celebrate Marcillac wine, showcasing the winegrowers’ expertise as well as the customs and traditions of the region.
This weekend’s event included an induction ceremony to introduce new members, read the commandments, swear an oath, award a diploma drawn in fine calligraphy, and present a tassou.
Guild members then share in the “wine, fruit of the sun and human labor,” a sort of incantation to nature, the winemakers’ craft, and the “Soleil de Marcillac,” represented by a local cake.
The event got busy when wine and food (aligot and Ségala veal) were copiously served to the public, and a brass band got going. Soon, the room filled with laughter and melodies; goblets clinked, wine swirled, feet tapped to the rhythm… If we had returned the following morning, it’s possible the party would still be going.
Wine celebrations are held throughout the year in this part of the world, so—whenever you visit—you’ll have a chance to participate in this joyful indulgence that blends tradition with festivity.
If you live in Aveyron, as we do, you’ll see many remnants of the Middle Ages, beginning of course with the architecture. Our modern era has not left anyone behind, but brought even the most obscure rituals forward.
Homer Simpson joining the stonecutters guild.
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1 This makes me think of Jeeves, the butler, and his influence over the dufus, Bertie Wooster in the books by P.G. Wodehouse.
Francescapes: 